4G13 and 4G15 Modification From Mild to Extreme

This post is created for those who wish to modify their 4G13 and 4G15 from mild to extreme machine. From what I understand, a lot of car ent...

This post is created for those who wish to modify their 4G13 and 4G15 from mild to extreme machine. From what I understand, a lot of car enthusiast wish not to go through all the hassle of transplant an engine and they prefer to play on their factory fitted engine. Some will say that you won't gain any knowledge by just putting in a powerful engine without going through the "step by step" modification experience.

Ok, let's start with the 4G13 engine. It is 1.3 liters engine which is known as economic fuel consumtion engine. 4G15 is 1.5 liters model is the base range model and produced a little more HP compare to 4G13. The 1.5 engine is very much your economy engine with only 90hp on engine. It can be modified easily and with surprising results. If going down to NA (naturally aspirated) path, with some modifications you can easily up the HP approximate 120hp on engine. If going to FI (forced induction) path, the low boost turbo systems will easily produce more HP compare to NA path.

For those older 4G13/4G15 from the Saga, Wira and Satria model, it is a standard 12 valves carburator engine. Normally people will upgrade their engine either to a EFI (electronic fuel injection) or to a performance carburetor, to name one WEBER). However, not all mods are for power though, there are many area's of braking and suspension that any stock car can always be improved with. Along with other drive line upgrades, you can have a smooth reliable car, with improved handling, and provide that little bit of sporty power to keep most people satisfied.

So I would like to compile a list of modification that can be done for 4G13 and 4G15. This section is to be used as a guide in your modification - I will be breaking this into sections to provide a well balanced vehicle.

Mild Modification
The mild modifications are designed for the every day driver, wanting improvements across the board without sacrificing road comfort, fuel economy or driveability.

1. Quick Shifters
The Mitsubishi gear shifter system is one of the better ones on the market. But that does not mean that people do not want to improve them. This is one of those modifications that can be done at any time. For those performing any level of competition work, or just want something a little more extreme, the Rally Spec Unit reduces overall movement by as much as 65% over stock.

2. Air Filters and Cold Air Intake Kits
The factory air box system on these vehicles, is quite restrictive.
1. Fitment of an aftermarket replacement air filter. You can get it from K&N which this will improved air flow and throttle response
2. Fitment of a Cold Air Intake Kit.

The Cold air kit relocates to the front bumper, pulling cold air especially where utilized with a aftermarket front bumper. Any aftermarket open pod filter is fine. The plastic pipe kit we honestly recommend, other than being the cheapest, is one of the best bang for dollar modifications you can do.

3. Exhaust System Upgrade
Since you have done a good job for the intake system, now is the time to do something about the exhaust system.Upgrading the exhaust system is one of the most beneficial modification and gain the most HP compare to others. In short, it worth the money to change the exhaust system. For stock 4G13 and 4G15 exhaust system, the size of the exhaust is about 1.5 inches to 1.6 inches. However, before you start to change the exhaust system, you must make a decision on until which level you plan to mod your car. Mild, medium or extreme modification has totally different exhaust size modification. Why I advised you to make the decision before moding the car because  you can save up some money for this modification. To be honest, I wasted a lot of money for my satria's exhaust system. This is because I changed the exhaust for 1.3L engine then change again for MIVEC engine and then change again for my current 4G93T  now. So you can imagine how much I had wasted for only the exhaust system. For moding the exhaust system, I suggested few guidelines as following:-

1. Naturally Aspirated - Carb / Stock ECU- You are only after mild improvements to make the car sportier, but don't intend to do any real serious mods. This being the case stick with replacement of the stock exhaust with either a rear muffler upgrade only 1.7" flow oval shaped unit, or complete it with a 1.7" press bent exhaust system with new muffler and resonator. Cat converter should remain stock. Any larger on the system would not provide without sufficient more expensive mods, any real gains.
2. Naturally Aspirated - Piggy Back ECU - you are after mild to medium improvements to make the car sportier, with slightly more than average vehicle modifications. This being the case, we recommend a 2" diameter replacement exhaust with a new resonator and muffler. No need to go mandrel bent unless you have money to throw away. This setup will handle the majority of modifications we have listed short of turbo systems
3. Naturally Aspirated -Standalone ECU - okay you are an extreme modder. Twin throttle bodies, camshafts the list goes on. We recommend in this case either a 2.2" mandrel bent system
4. Turbo Charged - 2.5" is more than enough for a 4G13 or 4G15 stock bolt on turbo.

4. Suspension Upgrade - Level 1

Basically at this point you are still have a midly modified vehicle and want to just improve the looks slightly and handling. I recommend in this situation the following

1. Replacement of stock springs with some lowering units - either 30mm or 50mm lowered units depending upon how low you want to go.
2. Fitment of a sway bar. Reduces body roll without reducing drive ability.
3. Fitment of a strut brace. Reduces the tendancy of the vehicle to float on the road and makes it less sensitive to changes in road camber, resulting in less need to constantly adjust the steering wheel to keep the car driving straight.

This package will proved a well balanced vehicle, capable of handling corners at higher speeds, will feel safer at higher speeds especially above 100km/hr. The steering will feel more precise and you will have overall more confidence in pushing the vehicle harder.

Medium Modification
The medium modifications are designed for those who want more HP from their car.

1. Extractor Upgrade
Original extractors are always not equal. But in reality, any half decent designed unit will be an improvement over the stock manifold on the vehicle. There are two types of designs. One is the 4-1 design which is design to produce power at the high rpm. This setup is suitable for those who always want to rev high. The other design is the 4-2-1 which is design to produce power at the low rpm, better torque response. This setup is suitable for those daily drive machine. 

If your plan is to go turbo, then save your money and jump ahead several more levels. This is not for you. For everyone else, this will complete the balance of your exhaust system modifications.

2. Fuel Pressure Upgrades
This is the one thing we believe that these vehicles should always have fitted regardless of how little, or much you modify the vehicle. Quite simply the factory vehicle has been tuned for maximum Economy. This has resulted in a fairly large flat spot off idle when accelerating hard from a standing start of from a cruise mode situation. The reason for this is Mitsubishi has tuned very lean on the accelerator pump settings, resulting in the lack lustre performance on throttle, but excellent fuel economy.

1. Fitment of the Fuel Pressure Regulator kit eliminates this flat spot, whilst only marginally reducing your fuel economy. Without going into huge detail, trust us when we say, flat spots are eliminated, your car will actually accelerate properly without hesitating and your fear of being run over at stop signs will diminish rapidly. This is an easy bolt on kit and can usually be done in around 1 hour maximum.

2. There are company manufacturing bored out fuel rail, which increases the fuel capacity within the fuel rail. This enables upon acceleration, a greater volume of fuel to become available before leaning out. This also reduces the tendancy to pulse the fuel and create disturbances in the fuel flow, providing a smoother transition to power.

3. Single Throttle Body Upgrade / Thermo Block Kit
Time to look at improving throttle response again. Now if you are wanting to go a little more extreme, to a twin system then you need to wait a little longer. For everyone else, time to start looking at improving throttle response, even if you are going turbo.

The stock throttle body on the 4G15 SOHC engine is 46mm. I Recomends for the majority of owners to do the following

1. For all 1.5 SOHC owners, upgrading the stock to 51mm or a 55mm is very beneficial. However on the SOHC models, anything with the stock manifold and cylinder head over 55mm is really just not effective
2. For all 1.6 SOHC owners, upgrading to 55mm is extremely beneficial.
3. For 1.6 SOHC owners with upcoming computer mods (Piggy back ECU) then a 60mm is also very beneficial if you are remaning Naturally Aspirated and don't plan on going to a twin system. If you are going to a turbo, then stay with the 55mm.

Whilst this work is being done, I recomend fitting at the same time a Thermo Block Kit. Consider this an extension of the cold air intake kit be reducing heat soak into the intake manifold from the engine and the throttle body which have hot water running through them. This drops the average intake tempatures by 25% overall resulting in improved combustion, fuel economy and throttle response.

This package adds 3-5hp, but does improve throttle response and low rpm driveability. The thermoblock kit reduces heat soak and this allows the engine to maintain maximun ignition timing with max throttle response.

4. Drive Line Upgrades
There are three main driveline upgrades which can be done, which go a long way towards improving the reliability of the engine as well as driveability.

1. Lightweight Crankpulley - this unit reduces both the moving mass of the front harmonic balancer, as well as being physically smaller by around 25% diameter over the stock unit. Helps to make the car rev faster, spins up faster and higher. The reduction in drive ratio's means that the power steering and alternator are turning less at higher speeds further reducing engine load. This is just small enough to reduce load without reducing the effectiveness of the operation of the alternator and power steering units. Highly recommended and very easily fitted.
2. Clutch Kit - At some point your clutch will need upgrading. Two options available - for naturally aspirated drivers a standard coverplate with a semi ceramic five pucker clutch disc package. This will increase clutch efficiency by 50% without any extra pedal effort required. For turbocharged vehicles, this is upgraded to a Heavy Duty unit with the cover plate strengthens by an additional 25%. This provides slightly increased pedal effort and more tendancy to be shudder on take off's but will handle the higher torque characteristics of a turbo.
3. Lightweight Flywheel - this has two benefits being increased strength over stock units and also make the semi ceramic clutch units more driveable by not allowing them to shudder as much. Second benefit is that they are lighter and enable the engine to rev easier, faster with less reciprocating weight. However, do not skim the flywheel to much because this will cause loss of torque.

5. Suspension Modifications - Level 2
Is time to have some upgrade for your suspension again. Since mild mod is only changing to a lowered spring, it is advisable to change the shock absorber as well for a medium modification.

1. Fitment of KYB Excel-G replacement units for the more budget conscious. Retains improved handling over stock.
2. Fitment of KYB AGX units. These are externally adjustable and are perfect for the all round street / strip / circuit car. You can set them soft when your on the road, hard when your driving hard. Adjustment takes less than 1 minute
3. Fitment if Koni Sports Inserts. These are similar to the KYB AGX units, but are serviceable and provide that little bit more control. They are a more precise unit, externally adjustable on the front only, internally adjustable on the rear. For the more sports conscious person these could be the better choice.

6. Brake Upgrades
Since the performance of the car is higher now, so it is better for us to have a good braking system. The stock brakes on the front is a 235mm single piston caliper package with drum rear brakes. There are few ways to improve the braking system.

1. For those already satisfied with the current HP gain, minor improving on front brake is fine by just changing the front brake pad to a performance brake pad and changing the rubber hose to those stainless steel brake hose. I personally recommend Pro-RS because it is cheap and reliable.
2. Next, you can replace the rear drum to rear disc. For Wira and Satria owner who wish to maintain PCD 100, you can always opt for Wira 1.6 rear disc brake, Putra, Satria GTi or Mirage Cyborg rear disc brake. While owners who wish to change to PCD 114.3, you can try to change to Lancer or Lancer Evolution brake system.
3. For those wanting the final level of brakes, fitment of a 276mm Twin Piston front brake and brake master cylinder upgrade is the final step.

Extreme Modification

Now we are down to the serious modifiers. Comfort and driveability is usually second to engine performance and speed is your goal. These next levels are not only expensive and it require an experience mechanic to perform the modification. If anything goes wrong, you are not only wasting your money but also your time. Besides that, do think of whether after this final stage upgrade will the performance satisfy you? If not it is better to save up the money and go for engine transplant.

The following mods require you to decide, which of the following ways you are going which will be

1. Suspension Modifications - Level 3
 The last stage of suspension modification is changing to either coil over adjustable suspension or just adjustable suspension. There are few guidelines as below:

1. I recommend the Tien units. To put it quite simply, many Japanese units are set very very hard, so even on there softest unit the car is very harsh, hurts kidney's and actually has worse handling as it skips all over the road. The hardest setting on the Tien units, are equal to the softest setting on the Japanese normal imported units. I cannot recommend these enough - they are simply fantastic with the ability to set your road height, rebound levels etc.
2. These Tien Units are also available to be electronically adjusted on there rebound rates via up to one independent controller per corner, or one controller on all four units as an example. Mostly for extreme racing only.

2. Performance Camshaft 4G13 and 4G15
When selecting a performance camshaft, consider the use for which the vehicle will be required. We all know the claims: 20 BHP extra. Be conservative! Don’t over-cam your engine. Choose your cam for the correct application. Consider! Fit a milder cam and increase your power by 10 BHP at 3500 rpm. Remember! You get this 10 HP every time you accelerate through 3500 rpm. Multiply this by 10 HP each time you drive through 3500 rpm then deduct the times you reach 7500 rpm. I’m sure you will find more horsepower on the 3500 rpm side than the 7500 rpm calculation.

From what I observed recently, there is a cam produced by a local brand JASMA able to deliver 8hp on wheel for a totally stock 4G13 engine. 

The specification is :
Intake 270deg lift 9.35mm
Exhaust 275deg lift 9.20mm

Well, I am not saying something without any proof. Here is the dyno graph for before and after JASMA high cam installed (from squiparts.com).  By in mind that the dyno graph below is a totally stock 4G13 carburetor. Without any modification for the exhaust system and etc. The best part is this cam shaft only cost you about RM400++ which is worth to invest for a good performance.

3. Computer Modifications
Sorry to carburetor owner, this modification is only available for those EFI owner. There are two types of choices, either standalone or piggy back.

1. If you are still budget conscious, then stick with the piggy back. However do remember that EFI piggyback with Siemens VDO ECU is not work because Siemens VDO ECU do have the ability of reset the setting after sometimes.
2. Since budget is not the concern here then a standalone is what you need. Much more advanced tuning, with options like shift lights, in built boost controllers, many many more mapping points, much finer tuning. Additionally the stock ECU even with a piggy back is unable to cope with any camshaft changes at all.

For piggy back system, I recommend Greddy Emanage. If you have a tight budget, take the Greddy Emanage blue with ignition harness. If you have more budget, you may get the Greddy Emanage Ultimate which provide more tuning capability. I do not really recommend UNICHIP because you need to bring to their authorized dealer to tune your car. This is quite inconvenience for those who stay far apart from those authorized dealers.

For standalone system, I persoanlly recommend Apexi Power FC. This is because it has the commander for you to fine tune your car compare to the rest like Haltech/Microtech which need a special software from the tuner to tune it. However the downside of Apexi Power FC is, it is not universal, which means that it is built for particular car model. You may read my ECU upgrade for my Celica (Apexi Power FC) here. Haltech EMS systems - There is the E6X for those wanting something simple, or the Haltech E8 for those wanting the best. With the inbuilt boost controllers, and hosts of other functions, these are way ahead of trying do piece together a piggy back with separate boost controllers, shift lights, gauges etc.

4. Intake Manifold Upgrade / Twin Throttle Body / 4 Throttle Body Conversion
If you are remaining Naturally Aspirated you have several options.

1. First you can go for a single throttle body with Internal Ram Tubes. Massive throttle response, Haltech piggy back system great looks without extreme levels of tuning required. Significant torque improvements and can be utilized up to a single 60mm throttle body
2. Upgrade utilizing stock manifold, modified with fitment of a second throttle body - twin throttle body conversion. Either twin 46mm or twin 51mm throttle bodies work very nicely for a progressive throttle response and great top end rush of power. This system is fantastic and highly recommended if insurance premiums are a 3. The third option is a combination of a Performance Intake Manifold and twin throttle body. Massive plenum chamber, improved air flow, progressive throttle response, this is nearly equivalent to a quad throttle body kit without the side effects and all of the benefits. Massive air flow and the ability to tune with a piggy back or EMS system. Not turbo compatible of course.

5. 1.6 SOHC Stroker Kit Package
Some people not believe their stock engine can be 1.6 liters. These engine can fit 4G18 Stroker kit which is 1.6 liters in capacity. Stock 1.5 block will be rebore n some modification on the stroker needed. Beside 4G18 from Proton Waja 1.6L, another option is the S4PH from the 1.6 Campro engine. The S4PH is lighter which I believe the engine is easier to rev. Furthermore, SP4H has a longer stroke which capable to bore and stroke it more than 1.6L but the durability and reliable is a doubt here since I personally have not see a 4G15 bore more than 1.6L. Comparing the CC that able to get from 4G15 after the stroker kit are 4G18 -> 1584cc and S4PH -> 1597cc.

6. Turbocharger Conversion Package
What more can I say other than your a horsepower and boost Junkie. Welcome to the rest of the world. This combines extreme levels of torque and power, with neck snapping acceleration. It comes at a cost though, increased fuel economy, higher insurance and lots of money. But lets get something clear first.

1. Anyone believing they can effectivly fit a turbo kit on there car safely, properly and legally.
2. These engines in stock form will not handle above 1 PSI boost without aftermarket computer management despite what people believe. 25 : 1 rising rate fuel pressure regulators, larger injectors, moving the distributor to retard timing all these tricks - none work. Don't skimp.
3. 5th Injector systems are something that came and died in the 80's. Quite simply this does not distribute fuel properly to all cylinders, and still does not provide ignition timing adjustment.
4. For boost levels up to 10 psi can be done safety on the stock head gasket dependent upon tuning and intercooler efficiency.
5. For boost levels up to 14 psi requires an upgraded decompression head gasket.
6. Do not boost above 14 psi on the stock piston / conrod setup otherwise you will learn what a banana conrod looks like.

The 4G15 SOHC engine at around 12 psi is good for around 130kw at the flywheel at the extreme.

Finally, it reached the end of this post. My advice for those who still do not satisfy the power gain from all these modifications, you should instead either look for another car or look to do a engine swap to a larger mitsubishi engine.

If you have any other modifications wish to share with me, do email me at ben9166@gmail.com or drop me a comment. Thanks for the support.


  1. Hi Ben I have a Mitsubishi Lancer 4G13, I would like to do a whole lot of modification from the body to the engine turn it into a performance vehicle. Do you mind giving me few pointers on where to start and what u personally think would be good the engine?

  2. Hi,

    Not sure which Mit Lancer you talking about but I assume that you have a CS platform instead of a CA platform.

    You can go for 4G18 stroker kit to increase your engine capacity to 1.6L. Then get a DOHC head and do a SOHC -> DOHC conversion. With this your engine performance will increase significantly.

    For daily usage, I would recommend you to install bar to improve stability. For eg: ultra racing bars. For bodykit, I prefer JDM style.
    For track usage, get your car with roll cage and I don't think you need a nice bodykit for track use.


  3. hi ben,
    i read your article. it make my mind one question.
    i had proton saga 2006, i guess is 4G13 carb.(if i wrong, let me know please). i just wondering can i just change the stroker kit from 4G13 to S4PH?

    from: MiCO Loh

  4. Hi MiCo Loh,

    Yes, but beware that you need to bore the block to fit in the piston.


  5. is any mild modification for 1998 iswara 1.3?

  6. Ben, Ive read the entire blog. I have a 2001 Wira 4G13, can you recommend a good workshop in Penang?

    Also, about a prior unanswered question about short shifters, is there a less expensive alternative to the RM550 part you mentioned?

  7. Hi,

    The mild modification is suitable for 1998 Iswara 1.3.


  8. Hi,

    Normally I will service my car at Vibrant Auto. The boss name is Chuan and he graduated from Japan. However the price is slightly higher. If you want cheaper alternative, you may go to CKS auto.

    Yes, there are some cheap short shiters. But I do not know how reliable are them.


  9. 4g15 vdo user.

    planning to change:
    4-2-1 extractor

    a friend of mine rcomended me ar racing camshaft.have u heard of it...he also said it increased his car's top speed to 210kmh....is it possible.
    also i want to know the price i can get in penang...
    and do you know any reliable workshop in penang ....


  10. Hi. is ir possible to convert 4g13 8 valve to 12 valve using 4g15 cylinder head?

  11. Hi, do u have performance upgrades for 4g15 dohc twincam? Pls respond

  12. hello friends
    I am using lancer 92 12 valve 4g13 with SU carb I need to know that from where can I adjust the vacuum pressure from carb? because reducing vacuum pressure is very useful for CNG drive

  13. Hi ben!

    I got a few question what model of satria is better 1.3 or 1.5
    And if i got a 1.3 heres my plans for modifieding it hope it can get your approval...
    1.4x2x1 header[bigger inlet&outlet than the stock factory one]
    2.1.75 piping from header to muffler.
    3.2.0 inlet&outlet s flow muffler
    4.bigger diagram of throttle body[under 55mm]
    5.bigger diagram of intake manifold[or just swap it to a 4g15 or 4g16?]
    6.sport valve spring
    7.lighter cam&crank pulley
    8.short shifter
    9.cold air intake[or just a plain drop in filter]
    10.high cam
    And should i include an emanage with all these mod?
    Would it decreased my lower end power and top speed or it just remain the same?
    I hope you take time to read and answer my question,thank you. :D

  14. Hi Ben:

    Im using a 2005 Iswara Saga with the carburetor engine of Magma 12Valve manual transmission. I had change quite a lot of things on it, like: cam & crank shaft pulleys, open pod air filter, 4-2-1 exhaust with turbo tube and a Remus straight flow exhaust, performance brake disc & pads, D2 suspenssion and etc. To me is still like lacking of something that can't really produce out the maximum power or torque. I'm also using a sport clutch too but what will u recommend for more modification to gain more HP and torque.

  15. Hello, I'm going to change my carb with 55mm as you said, btw my engine is a 4g15 sohc and i've decided to change my extractors to 4-2-1 but I don't know which cylinder head I will choose. Can u help me?

  16. Hey, do you still make posts here? I just bought a Satria 4G15P and I'm planning on going through some of these upgrades. Hopefully your email is still valid in case I have some enquiries.


  17. Hey man.. i just read ur article.. it's bery easy to understand and im planning to tell my friend about what modifications can he do to improve his car performance.. me by the way can only learn how to make my car handle better since im not using 4g15 anymore.. im ising 4g91 rite now.. so im wondering if u have tips for me that i can use to modify my engine. Just mild and medium mod will suffice coz im not planning to go anymore extreme than that. So if u have some tips, just send me an email k.. badrule14@gmail.com.. cant wait for your reply.. thanks mate.. :D

  18. Hi ben! What size of header pipes do I need to replace on my 4g13 12v lancer? I already upgraded the fuel systems and air systems. Thanks!

  19. hi ben,
    my engine 4g13. Inlet Size 1.75 inches, what do you recommend for my outlet?

  20. hello ben, new here, may i know about throttle body, is that applicable to 4g13? and my rpm always 550 when ideal after the engin warm, is that okay?

  21. hi ben,

    my car is wira 4g15 vdo model. now i am planning upgrading waja 1.6 stroke kit and i already upgrade my car exhaust system with 4-2-1 extractor (1.8"), center system bullet with 2.0" piping until muffler & s-flow muffler.

    any other things do you recommended?

  22. Hi Ben,
    I'm currently driving Wira 1.5 ,I wish to bolt on turbo and replace a good ecu for the turbo.can u recommend and how much will it cost for this modification??

  23. Hey ben,where can i get short shifters around Klang and could you please suggest an exhaust system upgrade for my 4G15 which is my daily.

  24. Hi......i have a crap 4g13 which i am still wonderig what should i do to its carburater and block. I have replaced my 4g13 head block to 1.5 old saga head block and distributors but not power even a C70 can race up hill and smoked me. I still have the old 1.5 saga remaining parts. Pls all pros help adviced me. Thank you....

  25. Hi......i have a crap 4g13 which i am still wonderig what should i do to its carburater and block. I have replaced my 4g13 head block to 1.5 old saga head block and distributors but not power even a C70 can race up hill and smoked me. I still have the old 1.5 saga remaining parts. Pls all pros help adviced me. Please email me at lim33@go.byuh.edu
    Thank you....

  26. hey mate were should i start wit the in side of my motor after i have turbo it 4G15

  27. My iswara is 1.3l can I use Waja 1.6l crankshaft and piston

  28. is it applicable on 4G15 auto?

  29. Hi bro, would like to ask. is there any recommend shop in johor bahru? I'm from JB. thanks alot!

  30. hi ben,

    Very good artical from you..nice job bro!!. i'm amir..
    Well ben, i would like to get some guide from u for my 1999iswara a/b(4g13p) carb. my ride is still "standard kilang".. it is time to get something must be done to my car.. i prefer to set my car on N/A setting.

    Can u give me suggestion or guide what i have to do/start with?
    i really hope that u can help me.

    thanks in advance and have a nice day.


  31. Hello may i know How much for the price 4g15 efi intake manifold? Thank You

    1. 4G15 intake manifold will cost around RM100 to RM150 depending on where you from.

  32. Hi Ben,

    I want to upgrade Mitsubishi Lancer 4G15/12 V / SOHC / CK2A stock throttle body to 51 mm or 55 mm. please recommend me where i can purchase them. or give your suggestion on the size available in the market thanks.

  33. Hi ben. Where can i find those 264 cam ya?

  34. You may try to get from Matspeed

  35. Hello Ben,
    Im a newbie in motorsport, I have 1.3 stock carb Iswara. My aim is to made it a medium boost on it suitable for daily drive.
    please provide me the list I things that I need to do to improve my car.
    I only done gab adjustable and open air intake for it.

    1. Hi Quineros,

      I would like to clarify "medium boost" means over here? Do you really want to boost it or improve the performance?


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2ZZGE,18,360,1,4AGE,24,4D58,4,4D65,4,4D65T,4,4G13,12,4G15,11,4G16,4,4G37,4,4G61,4,4G61T,1,4G63,4,4G63T,11,4G64,6,4G91,2,4G92,16,4G93,9,4G93T,28,4G94,5,ABT,2,Acura,1,Acura NSX Type R,1,Adjustable Cam Pulley,2,ANCAP,1,Apexi,1,Arospeed,1,Audi,4,Audi R8,2,Audi R8 GTR,1,Audi RS6,1,Audi TT,1,BBS,1,Bentley,1,Bentley Continental GT BR-10,1,Benz,1,Bike Modification,1,BMW,4,BMW 1 Series,1,BMW 5.0L V10,1,BMW M3 GTS,1,BMW M6,1,Bolt on Turbo,2,Boost Controller,1,Boost Meter,1,Bugatti,1,Bugatti Veyron,1,Cafe Racer,1,Campro Engine,3,Capristo,1,Car Accident,1,Car Detailing,2,Car Info,25,Car Modification,71,Car Repair,1,Car Shots,2,Car Stolen,1,Car Stuffs,32,Carbon Fiber,1,Celica Veilside 2ZZGE,23,Chevrolet,1,Concept Car,2,Crank Shaft,1,CRV L15B7,1,D.I.Y,23,Daihasu,8,Daihatsu,9,Daihatsu Ayla,1,Daihatsu Mira,19,Daihatsu Move,2,Daytime Running Light,1,DMC Tuning,1,DRL,1,Duratech,1,EFJL,1,Electric cars,1,Engine bay,1,Engine valve cover,1,Exhaust,1,Extreme Bodykit,1,Ferrari,8,Ferrari 360,1,Ferrari 360 Challenge,1,Ferrari 458 Italia,2,Ferrari Enzo,1,Ferrari F12 Berlinetta,1,Ferrari F430,1,Ferrari F70,1,Flywheel,1,Ford Mustang,2,Formula Atlantic,1,Formula One,2,Fox Marketing,1,Gallery,6,Gearbox,7,Gemballa,1,Goodwoord,1,GSR,18,Hella Flush,1,Hennessey Performance,1,Hennessey Venom GT Spyder,1,HKS,1,Honda,24,Honda Beat,1,Honda Bike,2,Honda CB350,1,Honda Civic,9,Honda Civic EK,3,Honda Civic Si,1,Honda Civic Type R,7,Honda CRV,1,Honda CRX,1,Honda EX-5,1,Honda Integra DC2,1,Honda Integra DC5,1,Honda Jazz,1,Honda S660,1,HondaEF8,1,Hybrid cars,2,Hyundai,1,Hyundai i-oniq,1,Indy Car,2,Inifinity,1,Inifinity Emerg-E,1,J's Racing,1,J32,1,Japanese,2,JBJL,3,JDM,2,K20A,2,Kancil L2s/L5,49,Kawashima Celica,1,Kegani Autotech,1,Ken Block,1,Kia,1,Koenigsegg,1,Koenigsegg CCXR,1,L15B7,1,L200,4,L200s,8,L2s,8,L5,1,L502s,3,L700,2,L900,2,Lamborghini,8,Lamborghini Aventador,3,Lamborghini Cabrera,1,Lamborghini Gallardo,3,Lamborghini Urus,1,Lamborghini Veneno,1,Lexus,2,Lexus LF-LC,1,Lexus LFA,1,Lightened Crank Pulley,1,Limousine Toyota Prius,1,Lotus,4,Lotus Elise,2,Lotus Evora,1,Lotus Exige,1,LS4,1,Lumma Design,1,Lumma Design CLR 6M,1,Maintenance,3,Mazda,7,Mazda Lantis,1,Mazda MX-5,1,Mazda MX-5 GT,1,Mazda RX-7,2,Mazda RX-8,1,Mazda RX-8 SPIRIT,1,Mazda Spaceship,1,McLaren,1,McLaren P1,1,Mercedes,1,Mercedes C63 AMG Black Series,1,Mirage,2,Mirage Cyborg,5,Mitsubishi,34,Mitsubishi Colt,3,Mitsubishi FTO,1,Mitsubishi i-MiEV,1,Mitsubishi Lancer,1,Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution,8,Mitsubishi Lancer GSR,1,Mitsubishi Mirage,4,Mitsubishi Mirage Asti,1,MIVEC,11,Monkey Wrench Racing,1,Mugen,2,My Project Celica,3,My Project CRV,1,My Project Kancil,4,My Project Satria,18,News,74,NISMO,2,Nissan,14,Nissan GTR30,1,Nissan GTR35,4,Nissan Juke R,1,Nissan Latio,1,Nissan Skyline GT-R (KGC10),1,Nissan Skyline GT-R (KPGC110),1,nissan skyline GT-R 33,1,Nissan Skyline GTR-34,3,Old School Car Retro,1,Others,1,Performance Parts,1,Perodua,20,Perodua Alza,3,Perodua Axia,1,Perodua Kancil,16,Perodua Kelisa,1,Perodua Kenari,1,Perodua Myvi,5,Perodua Viva,1,Pimp my ride,1,Police Car,1,Polo Sedan PQ25,4,Porsche,9,Porsche 911,2,Porsche 911 GT3 RS 4.0,2,Porsche Cayenne 958,1,Porsche Cayman,2,Porsche Gemballa Mirage,1,Prior Design,1,Project car,1,Project Cars,107,Proton,75,Proton Artiga,2,Proton Coupe Evolution 16v,1,Proton Exora,5,Proton Exora Bold,1,Proton Exora Prime,1,Proton Exora Turbo,3,Proton Gen2,2,Proton Inspira,2,Proton Iswara,2,Proton P3-21A,7,Proton Persona,4,Proton Persona R,1,Proton Preve,4,Proton Preve Hatchback,1,Proton Preve Sapphire,1,Proton Putra,2,Proton Saga,6,Proton Saga BLM,3,Proton Saga BLM FLX,1,Proton Saga BLM FLX 1.6,2,Proton Satria,33,Proton Satria Cabriolet,1,Proton Satria GTi,4,Proton Satria GTi R3,1,Proton Satria Neo,6,Proton Satria RWD,1,Proton Wira,2,Proton Wira Edition,1,R3,1,Renault,2,Renault Alpine,1,Renault Clio 4,1,Rocket Bunny,1,Rotary,2,RWB,1,S4PE,1,S4PH,1,Satria GSR,33,Scion,1,Scion FR-S,1,Sepang International Circuit,1,Shoft Shifter,1,Shoshinsha,1,Silvertop,1,Spark Plugs,5,Speed Cut,1,SpeedArt,2,Sport Rim,1,Spy Shot,3,SR Auto Group,1,Subaru,2,Supercharged,2,Team Orange,1,TEIN,1,TEQ,1,Torque Converter,1,Toyoda,1,Toyota,56,Toyota Agya,1,Toyota Agya TRD,1,Toyota Avanza,1,Toyota Camry,1,Toyota Celica,23,Toyota Corolla,3,Toyota Corolla BZR Levin,1,Toyota FT-86,1,Toyota LFA Special,1,Toyota MR2,2,Toyota MRS,1,Toyota Prius,1,Toyota Supra,2,Toyota TE27,1,Toyota VIOS,3,TRD,1,TRD. Stance,1,Type R,1,Underground Racing,1,Varis,1,Video,12,Volkswagen,4,Volkswagen Golf,1,Volkswagen Golf R,1,Volkswagen Jetta,1,Volkswagen Polo,1,Volvo,1,Vorsteiner,1,VR-4,1,VVTL-i,2,Wakaba,1,Works,1,XXX-Performance,1,Yamaha Ami,1,ZZT231,7,
BEN9166: 4G13 and 4G15 Modification From Mild to Extreme
4G13 and 4G15 Modification From Mild to Extreme
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